![]() ![]() Personally I would take this job in small chunks. You will thank yourself if you ever go to do this, and it'll add value to the house if/when you ever go to sell it. Also if you are replacing ceiling light fixture boxes consider using fan rated boxes and pulling the extra conductors to the switch location to add a ceiling fan later. This will actually make your life easier pulling the wire if you have "lady's hands" and can reach through the holes in the wall where the boxes used to be. You will probably have to knock the boxes out of the wall and replace with deep old work boxes as the original single gang boxes will be too small in capacity for current wire fill calcs. If it doesn't, you're busting holes in the wall. ![]() This pops the staples out of the studs just enough to let the rag wire pull through and the NM-B being smaller in overall size just comes along behind it. If you are just replacing the wiring utilizing the existing paths, I've actually had luck simply securely twisting and taping the new NM-B to the old rag wire and yanking hard from the attic. Ī couple of months after I finished the last one I ran into this, which would have come in pretty handy. One tool I found really handy besides the fishing tape was one of these. I was able to do both homes with almost no drywall/plaster repair. The house I'm in has hardwood upstairs but it has a knee wall and storage on each side so I was able to cut holes and push the wire between the joists. I was able to fish wire between the floor joists from light to light in some cases. I think I only had to cut about 4 long strips and a few smaller spots to drop wire down to the switches. In the rental the up stairs did not have hardwood floors so I pulled up strips of flooring over the downstairs lights and smaller sections over where the switches were located. One of the big challenges for me was the lights. I've replaced all the wire in two houses, the one I'm living in and a rental (I'm guessing there are electricians here who have done dozens or hundreds). You can drop it through a hole in the wall, even at switch height, and it can drill through the bottom or top plate into the basement or attic. I also recommend a 72" flexible shaft, auger/spade bit. You will need a good auger bit and a couple of decent drill extensions. You might need a 3/8-1/2" 90° drill also. You will need some kind of reinforcement behind the blue board where is meet the old plaster board/lath and of course drywall tape/mesh embedded in the first layer of mud.Ī lot of this has to do with the person doing the plaster work. Cut blue board to fit your large hole with cut out for electrical box. Remove the old box and but back the cloth covered Romex. The point is, make it neat and reasonably square. It might be easier to make a large hole around the existing box (12"x12" ?) with a drywall saw or an oscillating multi-tool or a small router with a special "sideways" cutting bit. What say the experts? What are some of the details of good practices?Ĭlick to expand.Depending on who is doing the plaster repair. I am thinking of creating an attic to basement chase in a closet for electrical and other wiring. What would need to be used for new wiring? In fishing Romex, what happens with fastening? I suppose all the existing boxes need replacing with old work ones. Obviously all the receptacles need replacing, and all existing wiring is that old cloth covered stuff. ![]() House is 2 story with basement and slab on grade garage with powder room and back hall over crawlspace. In addition, I will need to serve metal working machines in the one car garage and woodworking in a future detached shop.Įxterior walls are wood frame with brick veneer and cellulose blown in insulation. I would like to see the rest of the house wiring brought up to date, with adequate lighting and power for modern uses. Garage shop will be another panel just like the main panel. OH service drop and service entrance cable and meter box will be upgraded.Įxisting sub-panel in the basement that serves dryer and stove will be eliminated as stove and dryer are gas, and new main will have needed capabilities for any future ovens or cook-tops. ![]() Main panel will be replaced with a 200A QO main breaker panel 30/40 Main service is an inside 60A fused panel (I call it "Old Sparky"). ![]()
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